KNIVES: My Folder is Cheaper Than Yours – Quality Knives for Under a Hundred Bucks

You don’t need a $70,000.00 Victorinox Executive Knife for EDC (unless you are a pimp)

Due to James G’s feedback and input, I decided to write an article on knives under a hundred bucks,-. Honestly I’ve a hard time coming up with any ideas, because, in my last article I represented some good choices that were not too far into the high-end range.

My reasoning is that why should I spend 70 bucks on something that is made with cheap components and shoddy craftsmanship.  When in the long run the money I could save by buying something with better quality is much greater.

But your asking, just what differences are there between cheap versus expensive knives anyway?

Let’s go to the basics – any knife (regardless be it fixed or folder) is designed around two main components: the blade and the handle.  Getting into the nitty gritty you can look at whether the blade is full-tang on a fixed blade or how the mechanism locks the blade on a folding knife.

However, before I start to write a dissertation, let’s bring it down to the basics of just how a well made knife is defined in my point of view:

Blade material:

A cheap knife blade is usually something like 420 or 440C.  More expensive knives will typically have blades with steels such as VG-10, S30V, 154-CM, Titanium, etc. Now, before going into applied material sciences and arguing about certain molecular structures: basically “cheap” steel is easier to sharpen than expensive steel, thus a knife made with S30V will hold an edge compared to one made with 440C. Makes sense, right? Rule of thumb: 440C and AUS-8 is a very good starter. Anything below that, stay away.

Locking mechanisms on folders:

Another potential for discussing a single topic many hours. Here’s my personal rule-of-thumb, or literally “rule-of-fingers:” if the blade is very cheap, the liner-lock looks too cheap, then do not trust it.  Hold the knife in an ice-pick like grip anticipating that it could close accidentally at any time.  Seriously, do you except a manufacturer of cheap cutlery to have a Titanium liner-lock mechanism?  However on cheaper knives the back-lock seems to be the most robust mechanism regardless the quality of components used.

Handles:

For me it’s simple: cheap knives have ugly plastic handles; expensive knives are more detailed using G-10 or aluminum handles, finer screws, etc.

Now, let me come back to my main problem:

Why do you need a cheap knife?  Because, you don’t give a shit about knives, you lose your pocket knife once a week, you’ll break it anyway, it might get stolen by a fellow guy in your barracks, you could lose it thanks to the friendly airport security, etc.

My answer to all those arguments:

If you lose your stuff, learn not to lose it. We don’t dress like bums, because we could make a stain on our clothing while eating, right? Take care of your gear and it will take care of you. (Yes, I can hear my old man speaking, too…)

If you use your cheap folding knife as an impromptu pry-bar, you’ll be lucky if it does not break – as well as any better folder.

This is why Benchmade, Emerson, Spyderco, etc. warn you about abusing any knife as a pry-bar. Getting a cheap folder is no excuse for having it stolen. Usually buddies hesitate to “borrow” expensive gear, because then it’s clearly stealing.

Quality Knives for Under a Hundred Bucks:

So, for those of you who just spent another 2000 dollars on another 1911 going over-budget, have lost several blades in the checked-in luggage, or need some giveaways for corrupt airport officials in the Free Republic of Dirkastan, here are my suggestions of blades I have at least owned for several days:

Benchmade:

I consider benchmade a more a high-end cutlery company with several “collaboration-classics”. The Griptilian is a sweet, little knife but the handles look so cheap that I opt for something else that is cheaper. The “cheapest” Griptilian is around a 105 bucks,- anyway… Check out the Red Class of cutlery, they have some nice entry level knives just under 70 bucks,-you just can’t go wrong.

Spyderco:

The company has some really decent stuff and I have owned a lot of their products over the years.  However two things piss me off: die-hard collectors argue for hours why the latest Spyderco is x times better than the generation before, and that Spyderco started to outsource the production from USA to Asia switching to “assembled in the USA”.

Still, an all-black Endura 4 is my favorite knife for butchering the latest USPS shipment or killing an innocent apple.  I also like to hide one in my luggage as it is a very nice all-round travel knife as well. The recommend retail price is around 94 bucks.

Gerber:

I own a Gerber Applegate Fairbairn Combat Folder and it’s a nice little backup knife for traveling all over the world. Mine had the black-coated 440C steel and the lock was quite reassuring. (The Gerber Applegate Fairbairn Combat Dagger is one of my favorite classics and I still own one with a special harness.) I noticed some of them for around 70 bucks on the “Internets”.

CRKT:

Though my collection shifted to high-end production blades, I will always be a fan of CRKT, though I do not own one right now. The company has the best price-quality relationship I’ve seen so far.

•    Hissatsu: If I had to recommend a real good throw away/beater knife I’d go with this blade. I also checked out the Hissatsu folder on several occasions and it looks perfect for the price of 99 bucks.
•    M16/M21: I love those folders and had several of them over time. The M21 G10 Folder for USD 50,- looks perfect, though what exactly is a “titanium nitride-coated premium stainless steel blade”? Go figure…

Ka-Bar:

Here’s one blade I’d love to get your attention: the Ka-Bar TDI. The TDI Law Enforcement Ankle Knife is around USD 65,-. As intended by its designer the knife is for backup only (recommended for your weak-side “under” your duty-belt) and is clearly not recommended for slicing your Salami sausage. For conceal/backup-carry it’s a fine blade! I owned several and gave them away as presents including one with the really good boot-sheath.

Kershaw:

I am a big fan of the Kershaw Junkyard Dog which is in rotation with my Spyderco Endura. I just noticed my Junkyard Dog II, Composite Blade, KE-1725CB for 78 bucks on sale at an Internet outlet. Hard to beat that!

SOG:

IMHO an underrated cutlery company with some awesome blades. I am a big fan of the Daggers, though one has to invest into a custom Kydex sheath before carrying them on a daily basis. Sorry, but SOG’s new sheaths are cheap pieces of crap, especially when you compare them to the older leather sheaths in comparison. My personal recommendation is the Pentagon Elite I, due to its size it’s better concealable than the bigger PE II.

In Conclusion:

“Dude, can we go cheaper, I mean like below USD 40,-? Fuck you and your expensive gear for hundred bucks, I have kids to feed.”

Yes, we can. Check out Internet forums that have a “for sale” section or cutlery/gun stores getting rid of old models. There is a lot of good stuff to find second hand as well. Check out the blade “spiel” on a folder or go for something small and fixed if you look for cheap but sturdy.

In Europe there are a lot of local manufacturers doing great outdoor knifes for less than USD 50,-. Buck has also some nice stuff for hunters that can be used for EDC/self-defense as well.

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~Lorenz “Lo” Szabo
Contributing Correspondent

Lorenz “Lo” Szabo is an Austrian citizen and tactical gear-head, helping US companies locate customers in Europe and parts of Middle East. His areas of expertise are body-armor, less-lethal, and low-light. He also consults end-users on special equipment and training. He loves coffee, cigars, and all kind of bling made from Titanium. He has a dislike for people using political correctness as a defense for their own stupidity. As he has written this all himself, it might not be true at all…

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